Choosing wire gauge & fuses
Pick conductor sizes that carry the current without overheating or sagging in voltage, and fuse every circuit to protect the wire.
Wiring is where a lot of otherwise-good builds go wrong. The two things that matter are heat (a wire too thin for its current gets hot and can start a fire) and voltage drop (a long thin run wastes energy and dims your lights). Fuses are the safety net that stops a fault from turning the wire itself into the weak point.
Size for current and length
First find the current a circuit will carry: watts divided by volts. A 600 W inverter on 12 V can pull around 50 A under load — a surprisingly large number that needs a properly thick cable.
Then account for length. The longer the run, the thicker the wire needs to be to keep voltage drop under about 3% for sensitive loads. Low-voltage 12 V systems are far more sensitive to this than 24 V or 48 V, because the same power means much higher current.
Rule of thumb
As a starting point on 12 V, pick the cable from what the circuit does. Always check a voltage-drop figure for your exact run length rather than guessing — a long run steps everything up a size or two.
| Circuit | Typical cable |
|---|---|
| Lighting & signal | 1.5–2.5 mm² |
| Sockets & pumps | 4–6 mm² |
| DC-DC charger / solar feed | 6–10 mm² |
| Inverter & main battery | 25–70 mm² |
Starting points for 12 V DC. Long runs push voltage drop up, so step up a size for anything more than a few metres.
Fuse to protect the wire
The fuse protects the cable, not the appliance. Choose a fuse rating below the safe current-carrying capacity of the wire it protects, and as close to the source (the battery) as practical — the few centimetres between a battery terminal and its fuse are the most dangerous part of any system.
Use a Class-T or MEGA fuse on the main battery positive, and a fused distribution panel for the smaller branch circuits. Every wire that leaves the battery should pass through a fuse sized for that wire.